This spot takes its name from Brian Dunsmoor, who was lured from Hatchet Hall in Mar Vista to this once-abandoned Art Deco bank storefront in Glassell Park, some 15 miles and hours of agonizing traffic from the west side. Dunsmoor continues to explore early American cooking traditions: His kitchen is almost completely devoid of electric equipment; he prefers doing everything by hand. Here two large wood-fired ovens flank the kitchen, one a modified bread oven, the other a hearth where chops, steaks and marrow bones are grilled and smoked.
The menu also features raw things, pickled things, cured things, all reflecting a Southern US sensibility. You’ll also find roasted Belon oysters, grilled gulf shrimp and rainbow trout stuffed with chanterelles, pine nuts, brown butter and chives. LA wine royalty Taylor Parsons is a principal in the venture; the wine program is the work of Rachael Davis, whose local offerings include Sandlands old-vine zin, Enfield’s XB 05 mourvedre, and Scythians, the Raj Parr/Abe Schoener joint venture from the Lopez Vineyard’s ancient palomino vines in the Cucamonga Valley.
Dunsmoor is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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