Chad Colby of Chi Spacca started this Koreatown-adjacent storefront in an odd stretch of Beverly, not far from the Mozzaplex annex where his penchant for roasting things on an open fire took shape. Game and roasts did follow, as did superb homemade pasta, shared on communal tables that gave the place the feel of a tavern in an Italian village. During the COVID times, Antico became a destination for two pandemic staples no Angeleno could live without: pizza and ice cream. As COVID receded, Colby saw fit to rename the place Antico Nuovo and, seeking to offer a more intimate experience, ditched some of the communal tables, dimmed the lighting and re-emphasized the wood-fire ovens, equipped with rotisserie carousels for roasting prime rib and whole chickens. The pasta is still made in house, adorned with all-day ragùs and sugos. Rachel Grisafi has put together a list long on the robust reds that complement roasted meats; her Piedmont section is especially deep, not only in Barbaresco and Barolo but also selections from Ghemme, Bramaterra and Gattinara.
Antico Nuovo Wine Bar is part of our Top 30 LA List of 2023. Read the whole story here.
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
This story appears in the print issue of Spring 2023.
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