After a two-year hiatus, the restaurant at the Hotel Bel-Air reopened in November with a notable new modifier in its name: Wolfgang Puck. The results have been predictably impressive, starting with the decor, fully redesigned by the Rockwell Group, where, on warm nights at least, the glass doors are removed and dining, lounge, terrace and garden areas all flow together, anchored by an imposing white marble hearth in the main dining room. This is plainly a Puck menu: Whether it’s chestnut agnolotti flecked with white truffles or Sonoma lamb—rack and belly, from Campbell Ranch—it exhibits Puck’s flair with locally sourced ingredients. Robert Harpest, late of Jar, is refurbishing the wine list: Although it’s still a work in progress, he already can boast of one of the deepest selections of California cabernet in LA, and estimable vertical depth in Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley as well.
701 Stone Canyon Rd., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of February 2012.
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