Union Station - Wine & Spirits Magazine

Union Station

photo by Lucky Malone

In July 2014, Union Station reopened after two years of massive renovations. Not only has it been restored to its former elegance, it has also become a dining destination. Of the three wine-centric venues that have opened under its grand ceiling, The Cooper Lounge hews most closely to the original Union Station aesthetic: a sexy pseudospeakeasy perched on the mezzanine above the main terminal. Tufted gray settees, crystal stemware and silver-tray glass service throw a retro vibe, but the iPad you’ll be handed to peruse the wine list, packed with New World wines, proves it really is 2015. To dine, check out Stoic & Genuine, the newest from chef Jennifer Jasinski (Rioja, Bistro Vendome and Euclid Hall), a seafood house with global flavors. Hamachi sashimi shows up with Lebanese falafel and tahini aioli; lemongrass and lime embellish flash-fried haddock. Wine director Beth Gruitch offers a list rich in high-acid reds like Saumur rouge from Domaine Guiberteau and Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, plus sake and Sherry by the glass. Over at Mercantile Dining & Provision, sommelier Patrick Houghton has compiled the city’s best lineup of large-format offerings, including magnums of Dujac Clos de la Roche. He’s also pouring killer grower bubbly (2004 Henri Goutorbe Grand Cru), lesser-known Spanish whites (Quinta da Muradella Alanda) and Italians like Occhipinti Frappato that fit right in with Alex Seidel’s New American farmto-table food. Local tip: Reservations are scarce—so call ahead.

1701 Wynkoop St., Denver, Colorado

New American, Seafood

Cooper Lounge: 720-460- 3738
Mercantile Dining & Provision: 720-460-3733
Stoic & Geniune: 303-640-FISH

This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
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