In July 2014, Union Station reopened after two years of massive renovations. Not only has it been restored to its former elegance, it has also become a dining destination. Of the three wine-centric venues that have opened under its grand ceiling, The Cooper Lounge hews most closely to the original Union Station aesthetic: a sexy pseudospeakeasy perched on the mezzanine above the main terminal. Tufted gray settees, crystal stemware and silver-tray glass service throw a retro vibe, but the iPad you’ll be handed to peruse the wine list, packed with New World wines, proves it really is 2015. To dine, check out Stoic & Genuine, the newest from chef Jennifer Jasinski (Rioja, Bistro Vendome and Euclid Hall), a seafood house with global flavors. Hamachi sashimi shows up with Lebanese falafel and tahini aioli; lemongrass and lime embellish flash-fried haddock. Wine director Beth Gruitch offers a list rich in high-acid reds like Saumur rouge from Domaine Guiberteau and Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, plus sake and Sherry by the glass. Over at Mercantile Dining & Provision, sommelier Patrick Houghton has compiled the city’s best lineup of large-format offerings, including magnums of Dujac Clos de la Roche. He’s also pouring killer grower bubbly (2004 Henri Goutorbe Grand Cru), lesser-known Spanish whites (Quinta da Muradella Alanda) and Italians like Occhipinti Frappato that fit right in with Alex Seidel’s New American farmto-table food. Local tip: Reservations are scarce—so call ahead.
1701 Wynkoop St., Denver, Colorado
New American, Seafood
This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
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