Trois Mec hides in plain sight in a Hollywood strip mall, beneath the yellow glow of the sign for the kitchen that used to occupy the space, Raffallo’s Pizza. No pizza here: Instead, perennial pop-upper Ludovic Lefebvre collaborates with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo in this new humble home. The clean lines in zinc and smoked glass open onto a kitchen facing a half-dozen counter stools, where the bustle of cooking and plating takes on theatrical intensity. Trois Mec serves one prix-fixe menu per evening (which you must reserve, and pay for, weeks in advance): oddly satisfying compositions of raw beef and grilled yogurt, smoked almond milk anglaise and bone marrow flan, amuses bouches dusted with lerp sugar (the sweet excretions of a bug that sucks the sap from eucalyptus trees). Adam Vourvoulis has fashioned a small, all-French wine list with an emphasis on Burgundy, including Domaine Savary’s Vieilles Vignes Chablis and a Pommard from Fanny Sabre—or, if you prefer, go Loire with an older Chinon from Domaine Les Roches.
716 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of February 2014.
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