Trois Mec – Wine & Spirits Magazine

Trois Mec


Trois Mec hides in plain sight in a Hollywood strip mall, beneath the yellow glow of the sign for the kitchen that used to occupy the space, Raffallo’s Pizza. No pizza here: Instead, perennial pop-upper Ludovic Lefebvre collaborates with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo in this new humble home. The clean lines in zinc and smoked glass open onto a kitchen facing a half-dozen counter stools, where the bustle of cooking and plating takes on theatrical intensity. Trois Mec serves one prix-fixe menu per evening (which you must reserve, and pay for, weeks in advance): oddly satisfying compositions of raw beef and grilled yogurt, smoked almond milk anglaise and bone marrow flan, amuses bouches dusted with lerp sugar (the sweet excretions of a bug that sucks the sap from eucalyptus trees). Adam Vourvoulis has fashioned a small, all-French wine list with an emphasis on Burgundy, including Domaine Savary’s Vieilles Vignes Chablis and a Pommard from Fanny Sabre—or, if you prefer, go Loire with an older Chinon from Domaine Les Roches.

716 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, California

French

(323) 484-8588

Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.


This story appears in the print issue of February 2014.
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