At The Way Back in Denver’s Berkeley neighborhood, chefs Samuel Charles and Marcus Eng create beautiful small plates to complement the drinks from owner Chad Michael George. Start with a cocktail—George was famous for them at Williams & Graham—maybe the Oaxacan-influenced Garden, a mezcal drink with fresh green aromatics and a zip of spice. Then pick a few bites from the “supper” list and a glass of wine—perhaps one of the four Sherries on the list for trout with lemon and pecans, or a Côtes du Rhône from J.L. Chave for the beef heart, spätzle and mustard. Don’t leave without a peek at the brandy list: Peach Street Distillers’ Aged Peach Brandy, made from fruit grown in Palisade, Colorado, is excellent, especially with the goat cheese tart with fig, honey and almond.
4132 W. 38th St., Denver, Colorado
This story appears in the print issue of October 2016.
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