“Paul [Einbund] has done an amazing job of finding small-production wines along with an array of older vintages,” says William Cross Wine Merchants owner Steve Sherman. Flip past the chenin, white Burgundy and Cornas and you’ll eventually get to a section titled “some old fun wines,” which lists things like Louis Martini barberas from the 1960s and 70s. Einbund’s quirky perspective peeks out in other places, too: Where else would you find not one but two fendants from the Swiss region of Valais? He extends an olive branch to fellow wine collectors by offering one bottle’s worth of free corkage for every bottle purchased off the list. The smoked duck has become the kitchen’s calling card. And for $2, you can add a side of duck offal confit to your Tartine bread.
2501 Mariposa St., San Francisco, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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