Bohemian and gregarious, with a convivial European spirit, The Good King is like countless places in France, but it’s the only one like it in Philadelphia. Co-owners Chloe Grigri and her father, Bernard, a wine importer, have created a true bistro à vins in Bella Vista. While the menu sticks to the classics—French onion soup, mussels with saffron, steak frites—the place has an edginess pointed up by a list focused on natural wines from small producers throughout France (about a quarter of the bottles stray beyond France’s borders). The by-the-glass selection is priced to move, with pours divided into three categories—good, better and best—scaled by cost. Add in nightly specials, mystery pours and a half-price bottle list on Sundays, and The Good King is a must-visit.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2016.
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