Industrial warehouse meets woodworking chic at this homey but sleek spot in downtown LA. The space’s eclectic design—wicker chairs and a garden patio appear alongside a concrete bar and contemporary art—matches its menu and wine list. Chef Stephanie Izard first developed her bold flavors at the original Chicago location, playfully exploiting textural crunch to enhance dishes like browned goat butter Hamachi crudo served with pickled apple and tempura crumbs. She elevates classic flavors by combining sweet and savory in dishes such as duck tartare with gochujang mayo and gooseberries. Ken Fredrickson’s laser-focused wine list offers Tre Monti orange wine and Le Roc Négrette by the glass. Classics, including G.D. Vajra Barolo, are on the bottle list, but so are quirkier selections, like Cruse Wine Company Valdiguié, a light-bodied, fruity wine versatile enough to pair with the Thai-style branzino or goat curry. The selection of bright and earthy wines enhances the experience rather than overpowers, creating memorable food and wine pairings.
555-3 Mateo Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013
This story appears in the print issue of February 2020.
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