Unless you like cacophony, don’t head to The Dutch at 8 pm. The expansive, high-ceilinged space on the corner of Sullivan and Prince in SoHo might be one of the prettiest rooms in town, lights glittering off glass and mirrors, but it’s also one of the noisiest. Choose a Tuesday at 12, or 10 am on Saturday. Slip out of the office on a slow afternoon for drinks at the bar at five; have dinner after a show on a Sunday. Do whatever you can, in fact, to score a table, because it’s a lovely experience. Imagine a Parisian brasserie, boisterous and classy, but replace the Belons with bay scallops on the half shell and the páté with liverwurst slathered on ale-infused bread; think chicken consommé spiked with lemongrass, lime and chile. This is American food through and through, from lobster cocktail to fried chicken and collard greens cooked with a ham hock. Josh Nade’s wine list is a geek’s dream, piled high with classics smattered with categories like Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch & Trousseau,” “Greece” and “Gamay.” He highlights a handful of his current favorites up front, with short descriptions for each—Doisy Daene Sec for $60; Lalama Ribeira Sacra for $75—allowing you time to concentrate on getting every last bit of succulent meat off those fried chicken bones.
131 Sullivan St., New York, NY
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2012.
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