The Bazaar marks the California debut of José Andrés, the noted protégé of Ferran Adrià. Whether you choose to dine in the tapas bar, Rojo y Blanca, or the bustling Bar Centro, adjoining Philippe Starck-designed spaces in the SLS Hotel, surprises await. The buñuelos (cod fritters) are traditional, the caprese salad, with liquid mozzarella, not so much. Perhaps the best thing about The Bazaar’s menu is its juxtapositions: Compare an arbequina olive with one of Andrés’s substitutes, its skin containing an olivaceous center possibly more complex, and certainly more surprising, than the real thing. Lucas Paya’s wine list keeps up with the inventive menu, covering Spain’s best, including Rafael Palacios’s evocative godello, As Sortes, and the Mallorcan red AN/2 from Anima Negra.
SLS Hotel, 465 S. La Cienaga Blvd., Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2009.
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