During the day, this sprawling, sunny space feels more like a food hall than a traditional restaurant, with its busy coffee bar and pastry case, ice-cream counter and wraparound bar that turns out a mind-spinning array of cocktails and some wild non-alcoholic drinks. Dinner service puts the focus on the kitchen’s aptitude for fermentation and curing, which shows up in everything from the beets that top the smørrebrød to the koji-smoked pork chop. The sense of a forward-thinking culinary laboratory is heightened by the wine list, a great place to encounter the newest generation of California winemaking talent via bottlings like the 2018 Jaimee Motley Mondeuse Rosé, grown at Matthew Rorick’s remote vineyard in Calaveras County.
595 Alabama St., San Francisco, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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