A supra is a Georgian feast; it is also the name of a 4,000-square-foot, 136-seat addition to the Shaw neighborhood showcasing the Eurasian country’s cuisine. Opened by Jonathan and Laura Nelms, who enlisted Malkhaz Maisahvili, former Embassy of Georgia executive chef, to run the kitchen, the restaurant offers what’s likely the largest Georgian wine list in the US, with over four-dozen labels, one-third by the glass. Most are made in the traditional earthenware amphorae called qvevri (marked with a “Q” on the list) and from native grapes; to help diners navigate, the Nelmses provide tasting notes and group the wines in categories such as “Play it Safe” (a juicy, purple-fruited Vinoterra Saperavi) and “Take a Leap” (Our Wine Rkatsiteli, a deeply tannic, earthy white)—cues to the degree to which the choices stray from Western ideals when it comes to funk and tannins. Don’t fear the unusual, however: When it comes to the garlic-laden vegetable pâtés, rich cheese-stuffed pies and the one-two punch of tkemali (sour plum sauce) and ajika (chile paste) on the kebabs, tannic whites and earthy reds make a lot of sense.
1205 11th St. NW, Washington D.C.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2018.
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