St. Lawrence Restaurant - Wine & Spirits Magazine

Restaurant Review

St. Lawrence Restaurant

by treve-ring • February 5, 2018

photo by Glasfurd & Walker

For many Canadians, especially the French-speaking sort, “comfort food” refers to classically French, rustically haute Quebecois dishes like tourtière, a sort of pot pie, or la choucroute garnie. At St. Lawrence, chef JC Poirier presents them with a luxuriously all-French wine program. Start with le vrai French 75, made with Cognac, or an exuberant Vincent Caillé X Bulles pét-nat from Nantais, with steak tartare, chèvre noir and potato chips. When you get to the venison-filled tourtière, move on to a Clos du Tue-Boeuf Pineau d’Aunis or Clot de l’Oum Compagnie des Papillons. And then there’s the maple-syrup tin over-flowing with oreilles de crisse (deep-fried pork rinds) tossed in maple syrup and Montreal steak spice, paired with a Labatt 50 in a tall can. Whether you were raised a Canuck or not, it will make you sing “O Canada” en Français.

69 Powell St., Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

French

604-620-3800

stlawrencerestaurant.com

This story appears in the print issue of February 2018.
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TAGS British Columbia Canada French Restaurant Vancouver

David Paradela
Associate Editor

David joined Wine & Spirits in 2021 after immersing himself in the world of wine at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Originally from Boston, he graduated from Boston University with a degree in English and completed a master’s degree in Publishing and Writing from Emerson College in 2021. Prior to working at the magazine, he served as an editor and staff writer for the music blog Sound of Boston and worked in scientific publishing. Aside from wine, he loves basketball, arguing about Taylor Swift’s best album, and everything Greta Gerwig touches.

Corey Warren
Tastings Editor

Corey Warren moved to New York in 2015—fifteen years too late to join The Strokes—after earning a degree at Cornell in Comparative Literature. He started polishing glasses at Betony and threw himself into the restaurant world. Later, while a captain at Aquavit, he began working part time in the Wine & Spirits tasting department. Now, in addition to running tastings, he serves as critic for the wines of the Loire, Southern France, Argentina and South Africa. Corey likes almost anything bubbly, from Miller High Life, the Champagne of beers, to Champagne, the Champagne of Champagne, but he’ll drink anything once, and loves finding unique wines.

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Since Tara Q. Thomas joined Wine & Spirits in 1997, she’s traveled the wine world from Argentina to Australia. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, with more than 20 years of experience in the food and wine world, Tara puts her culinary knowledge to use as W&S’s resident food critic, and is the critic for the wines of Austria, Germany, Eastern Europe, Argentina, and the Mediterranean. She’s particularly enthusiastic about the wines of Greece, where she once lived and cooked. Outside of W&S, Tara has authored two books, The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and The Pocket Idiot’s Guide to Wine; contributed to the Oxford Companion to Cheese as well as Oxford’s forthcoming volume on spirits; and writes a wine column for Culture: The Word on Cheese.

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Patricio Tapia
Senior Correspondent

After graduating with a degree in journalism from the Universidad de Chile in Santiago, Patricio Tapia attended Bordeaux University in France, where he studied for a diploma in wine tasting and winemaking. Since then, he has visited wine regions around the world and authored several books, including his annual Descorchados, a Chilean wine guide; The Wines of Colchagua Valley; TodoVino and Wines for Great Occasions. Tapia is also the South American correspondent for The Oxford Companion to Wine, The World Atlas of Wine and Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book. For the past three years, he’s been a host on the El Gourmet channel in South America. At Wine & Spirits, Tapia is the critic for the wines of Argentina, Chile and Spain, and regularly contributes articles on these regions.