Everyone talks about the pizza here, but let’s talk about the wine list: Amanda Smeltz takes the provenance of her wines as seriously as the chefs do the food (which is significant: They grow much of the produce themselves, and provide a home base for Heritage Radio Network to broadcast shows about farmers and food.) The list is a paean to the undersung, funky and fringe, full of orange wines, Austrian obscurities, Hungarian varieties and alternative Italians. Start with the Strohmeier Schilcher—a cloudy, pale sparkling red from Western Styria that’s built for charcuterie—and work from there.
April 2017: Lowlife alum Hugh Crickmore took over the wine program at this Brooklyn icon last year, maintaining a focus on small, artisan producers, with bottles like Enfer d’Arvier from Danilo Thomain or Il Censo’s savory Praruar. Between the pizza and the wine, Roberta’s remains worth braving the crowds on the L train and at the door.
261 Moore St. (Bushwick), Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2016.
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