The view from the footings of the Brooklyn Bridge is worth the price of admission, as is the wine list, shepherded by Joseph DeLissio since 1977, the year Buzzy O’Keeffe opened the River Café. Chef Brad Steelman is now in his eighteenth year at the helm in the kitchen. If you want Coche-Dury Meursault or Mount Eden chardonnay for your Maryland and Maine crab cake with uni vinaigrette, invest in a 2005. There are great buys and dizzying verticals—of Heitz Cabernet dating back to 1968, Castillo Ygay to 1970, La Tâche to 2002, Rousseau Chambertin to 1996 and 15 vintages of Pétrus for your Mushrooms Wellington. There’s also a large selection of half bottles and magnums. And one of the best Madeira collections in the US.
1 Water St., Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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