Reynard, more commonly referred to as “the restaurant in the Wythe Hotel,” is the latest venture by Andrew Tarlow, whose restaurants Marlow & Sons and Diner have secured Williamsburg as the preeminent borough ’hood for destination dining. Like its brethren, Reynard feels über-trendy, the converted warehouse space only lightly manicured, but the cuisine keeps it from feeling clichéd. The focal point of the menu is the wood-burning oven, from which nearly every dish emerges, whether the beets atop the bay-leaf-scented yogurt, the sweet potatoes drizzled with marrow or any number of cuts of meat. The reliance on local farms and purveyors inspires a list of daily specials nearly as long as the standard menu, even in the depths of winter. Lee Campbell echoes the kitchen’s farm-centric approach with a list heavily weighted toward the miniscule and independent, the all-French list a key sheet to the country’s overperforming underdogs. In the very likely chance of a wait, don’t fret; just take the elevator up to the hotel’s rooftop bar, The Ides, for cocktails with a view of Manhattan.
80 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2013.
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