The idea behind Reno sounds simple: coffee and bagels by day, pasta and pizza by night. But because Reno is owned by a team that also owns some of Chicago’s best wine bars (notably Telegraph, which is right next door), everybody expected the spot to be a little bit… more. And it is: The flat and crispy bagels are baked every morning in a wood-fired oven, the pastas are made in-house and tossed with lamb neck ragús, and there’s a wine list that is both remarkably unusual and a ordable, too. With the guiding principle of selling “maverick” wines—that is, wines that buck the rules of their appellations—sommelier Jeremy Quinn is able to offer finds like the juicy côt from Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière in Muscadet and Cederberg’s floral, fruity bukettraube, a cross of sylvaner and schiava grossa–all of them under $40 a bottle. Or, if you want to take the bottle to go (yes, to go), under $30.
2607 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, Illinois
This story appears in the print issue of April 2013.
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