With a menu as Italy-centric as its wine list and chef-owner, Frank Bonanno, Osteria Marco delivers wood-oven pizzas and house-made salumi to go with with juice from Friuli to Sicily. Behind Osteria’s basement doors, opened in late fall 2007, Piedmont and Tuscany are well represented, but it’s the smaller hits from points south (Moletteri’s aglianico from Irpinia; Santadi’s Rocca Rubis from Sardinia) that set this list apart. The best thing? No bottle on offer costs more than $70.
1450 Larimer St., Denver, Colorado
This story appears in the print issue of April 2008.
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