The original Night+Market was founded in 2010, when former film student Kris Yenbamroong sublet a portion of his family’s restaurant (Talesai) to explore his fascination with Bangkok street food. It quickly became a not-very-underground sensation, but remained oddly located on the tail end of the tourist-laden Sunset Strip. Yenbamroong has since opened Night+Market Song in Silver Lake, a more congruous neighborhood for his traditional, uncompromising, powerfully flavored northern Thai dishes like Chiang Rai–style larb and fermented Isaan sausage. Yenbamroong’s friendship with wine shop owner Lou Amdur has fueled a passion for natural-leaning vins de soif, whether pét-nats and chenins from the Loire or Spätlesen from Germany’s Rheinhessen.
3322 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, California
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2015.
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