Merriman’s Honolulu furthers the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement Peter Merriman kicked off 25 years ago, focusing on local produce, fish and locally raised meats. Octopus comes “escargot-style,” in a Cognac-doused garlic butter; Keahole lobster joins local mushrooms in a corn-crusted pot pie. Either comes with an “amuse booze” of sparkling wine, a gift from wine director Dusty Grable that adds to the celebratory feel of the bright, high-ceilinged space. If you want more bubbly, he’s stocked the cellar with Chartogne-Taillet’s single-parcel Champagnes as well as a slew of other grower bottlings. The still wines span the world, with cult names like Eisele, Quintarelli and Latour among them, but good values dominate, especially in savvy selections of whites from Alsace and Germany and finds like three different bottlings from Zyme in northern Italy.
1108 Auahi St., Honolulu, Hawaii
This story appears in the print issue of October 2018.
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