Grabbing drinks at Maketto, a sleek multilevel space inspired by Asian night markets, is a dangerous proposition if you’re an impulse buyer. Here’s a tip: Make a beeline for the slender bar behind the men’s clothing showroom. Colin Sugalski’s seasonal cocktails demand attention, and can be carried around while you explore 6,000 square feet of temptations to fi ll belly, closet and cabinets. Invigorated by house-fermented drinking vinegars (including hibiscus, turmeric, ginger, blackberry and onion) or the energetic Taiwanese sorghum liquor Kaoliang, the drinks are savory and bright, peppery and smoky. They are also pitch perfect for chef Eric Bruner-Yang’s inventive fusion of Taiwanese and Cambodian cuisine, available in both the upstairs café and the 60-seat restaurant—think grilled Khmer sausage, Taiwanese fried chicken and wagyu bao dusted with herbs, spices and chiles.
1351 H St. NE, Washington D.C.
This story appears in the print issue of December 2015.
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