Majordomo is David Chang’s entrée into the LA dining scene, set in the industrial hinterlands between Chinatown and Lincoln Heights. You can get Chang staples like short ribs and bo ssam, but his California explorations should be why you’re here: preparations like local uni with yuzu and tofu, or fried rice with deep-fried skate wing. Richard Hargreave has assembled a fine-tuned wine list, strong in the middle tonal register, with chenins, chardonnays, pinots and nebbiolos. Be sure to check out the “Something Different” sections, red and white, where the Greek blends, savagnins and ciliegiolos hide in plain sight.
1725 Naud St., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of April 2019.
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