Todd Mussman, Ryan Turner and Chris Hall know how to turn a cursed restaurant space into a celebrated one. They’ve replaced the grandiose, defunct Jo‘l Brasserie in Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood with rollicking Local Three, renovating the once austere room into a playful honky-tonk with art that honors pigs, Elvis and Jeff Bridges in The Big Lebowski. Reservations are mandatory, though it’s usually possible to claim a seat at the long bar for dinner. Snack on boiled peanuts, pimento cheese and duckfat-fried hush puppies—terrific excuses to check out Matt Lathan’s collection of 60-plus Bourbons. Go for a flight—one memorable selection teams up Michter’s 10-Year-Old Single Barrel, Prichard’s Double Barreled and Pappy Van Winkle’s 23-Year-Old Family Reserve, the smoothest crackerjack of the bunch; then move on to the wine list, a restrained, savvy array of high-acid whites and lean reds—the sort of wines that prime the palate for dishes like the rich, loose interpretation of cassoulet with duck confit.
3290 Northside Pkwy., Atlanta, Georgia
This story appears in the print issue of April 2011.
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