Kali is possibly LA’s most “kalifornian” restaurant, the state’s flavors delivered with exquisite purity and directness. A Danish-modern interior of softly lit pinewood tables has the minimalist mien to emphasize Kevin Meehan’s visually arresting dishes, delicate, balanced and colorful. They seem to effect a latticework of flavors, the food routinely dusted with gravels, pollens or ash or enlivened with preserved lemon or a kombucha gastrique. Drew Langley’s wine program glides between accessible and collectible bottles, Moric’s “Supernatural” white coexisting with Colin-Morey’s St-Aubin Le Chatenière.
5722 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, Hollywood, California
This story appears in the print issue of April 2019.
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