A chic, charcoal-hued room, ITV (In The Valley) is Nick Elmi’s first foray into wine-bar territory, a sexy, moody counterpoint to Laurel, his tasting-menu-only date-night restaurant. Where Laurel is romantic, built for an entire evening, ITV is fit for a quick cocktail or a glass of wine and a few small plates. Sommelier Heather Sharp has built a list heavy on France, Elmi’s favorite, and Austria, her own. The focus on lean, light-bodied, Old World wines fits with the food: Try the chicken liver stroopwafle with plum agrodolce with a glass of sparkling Rosa Rosé Rosam from Domaine La Grange Tiphaine in the Loire, or the delicate pumpernickel “soldiers” of trout rillettes with a smoky Austrian sauvignon blanc from Weingut Tement. Dining at Laurel instead? Sharp does the wine pairing there, too.
1615 E. Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
This story appears in the print issue of December 2016.
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