HLAY is the city in microcosm, set at its crossroads, Koreatown, in an Art Deco storefront with floor-to-ceiling windows. Jonathan Whitener’s menu reads like a map of the city’s ethnic pluralism, where sliced tomatoes with bagna cauda arrive with a slab of lap xuong sausage and a drizzle of crème fraîche. Danielle Françoise Fournier’s wine list, like the place, is small, loud and omnivorous, with a high-acid through line, as in Liten Buffel’s bone-dry Shaw Vineyard riesling from NY’s Seneca Lake.
3901 W. 6th St., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of April 2019.
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