If this spot flies a bit under the radar, that may be because devotees don’t want to clue the rest of the world into the mid-2000s German rieslings and Vouvrays that owner Matt Straus offers for less than $100. Neither the dining room nor the food are particularly flashy, but the California takes on French bistro classics, like duck confit salad and bacon and-onion tart, are completely satisfying.
2500 Folsom St., San Francisco, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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