If you crave a bowl of broth on a winter’s night, there’s no warmer or more welcoming place to go than Hearth. And if that broth is made from seaweed, with shiitake and hijiki, ask Christine Wright for a glass of Manzanilla—the Maruja, from Bodegas Juan Piñero: it’s a brilliant and refreshing umami rush. You can get lost for hours in Wright’s list, which reads like a childhood dream of walking from one room to another in some vast, dimly lit home that might be related to your own, finding something you prized that you had lost before leaving it again to walk on to the next. So stop yourself and order the Sylvain Pataille Aligoté, a white wine in the same rich mood as your dream, and it will comfort you with anything you happen to order off the menu, whether the spatchcocked chicken for two or the whole-grain rigatoni with pork ragù.
403 E. 12th St, New York, NY
Italian, New American
This story appears in the print issue of April 2017.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.