The name’s the same, and so is the homey neighborhood vibe, but the reopened Grand Café is now in the hands of the formidable Jamie Malone, who won national attention for her stellar turn at Sea Change. She deftly melds old-school and new-wave cooking with a decidedly French bent: quenelles with crayfish sauce and “double-dose” veggies (carrots in carrot butter). Bill Summerville, the sommelier who put La Belle Vie on every local wine lover’s map, follows her lead, luring in guests with a glass of housemade vermouth or Equipo Navazos Manzanilla, then offering new finds, like Bermejos Malvasia Seco from the Canary Islands, alongside old favorites, like Foradori Teroldego, Oddero Barolo and Prager Riesling.
3804 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minnesota
This story appears in the print issue of April 2018.
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