A recent addition to hipster destination Henderson Avenue, Gemma is the first restaurant from Stephen Rogers and Allison Yoder, fresh out of Napa, where they worked back and front of the house, respectively, at Press. The menu retains a California feel, mingling Asian and Mediterranean influences with Texas-grown ingredients (arctic char tartare with ginger, lime and kiwi; Delta asparagus with pine nuts this spring). Yoder works to keep the wine list a ordable and interesting, the 200-plus selections ranging from Aubry Champagne and Knoll grüner veltliner to Pichierri Primitivo di Manduria and Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino. There’s even better value in the rare wine category: Lafarge Clos du Château des Ducs 2007, Château Rayas 2008 and Colgin IX are on offer at close to their typical retail prices. Bonus: Gemma serves a full menu until one in the morning, a rarity in Dallas.
2323 N. Henderson Ave., Dallas, Texas
This story appears in the print issue of August 2014.
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