Named for a French-Canadian mountain man famed for his ability to throw a good party, French Louie is a bright sliver of warmth and fun on Atlantic Avenue. It’s a change of pace for Doug Crowell, who runs Brooklyn’s Buttermilk Channel, where the food and wine is firmly American. Here he plays American favorites off French classics: Savary Chablis and Gaunoux Meursault share the page with Sandhi Chardonnay; Stéphane Magnien’s Bourgogne Passetoutgrains rubs shoulders with Grochau Cellars Willamette Pinot. All the bottles hew to a low-intervention, high-acid style that suits chef Ryan Angulo’s dishes, French classics with subtle twists. Smoked sardines come with rye bread and dulse-infused butter; the porgy Grenobloise comes with Concord grape brioche. French Louie would approve.
Click here for a recipe from chef Ryan Angulo.
320 Atlantic Ave. (btw. Smith & Hoyt Sts.), Brooklyn, New York
is W&S’s editor at large and covers the wines of the Mediterranean and Central and Eastern Europe for the magazine.
This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.