Named for a French-Canadian mountain man famed for his ability to throw a good party, French Louie is a bright sliver of warmth and fun on Atlantic Avenue. It’s a change of pace for Doug Crowell, who runs Brooklyn’s Buttermilk Channel, where the food and wine is firmly American. Here he plays American favorites off French classics: Savary Chablis and Gaunoux Meursault share the page with Sandhi Chardonnay; Stéphane Magnien’s Bourgogne Passetoutgrains rubs shoulders with Grochau Cellars Willamette Pinot. All the bottles hew to a low-intervention, high-acid style that suits chef Ryan Angulo’s dishes, French classics with subtle twists. Smoked sardines come with rye bread and dulse-infused butter; the porgy Grenobloise comes with Concord grape brioche. French Louie would approve.
320 Atlantic Ave. (btw. Smith & Hoyt Sts.), Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.