Zakary Pelaccio (late of Fatty Crab) and his wife, co-chef and pickler Jori Jayne Emde, recently opened Fish & Game in Hudson, New York. Fireplace cozy, the place surpasses the pitchperfect country post-ski photo op, with food worth the detour. This is locavore heavy, every ingredient pampered and often making contact with the fireplace, down to the ash in the butter. It’s easy to go through eight courses ($68) and not be stuffed, and yet it’s not so prissy that you yearn for pizza afterward. While there’s little to drink under $60 a bottle (but you couldn’t do better than Tricot’s Les Petites Fleurs, a gorgeous gamay from the Loire) there are plenty of good bottles, especially if your tastes lean adventurous: There are whole sections devoted to vin de voile, trousseau and ploussard. And the list is awash in orange. Open Thursday to Sunday.
13 S. Third St., Hudson, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2014.
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