Fig & Olive opened its LA outpost this spring on Melrose Place, across from the once-again-shuttered Bastide; it’s hard to imagine how such a vast and airy space can seem packed every night, but it is, with revelers on the right of the rosemary hedgerow cramming a 50-foot bar and a communal table of comparable length, and diners on two floors. It’s worth braving the crowds, however: Chef Pascal Lorange sticks closely to a Provence-inspired menu with deftly composed savory crostini, fennel-scented branzino ceviche and striped bass en papillote, while Jordan Ogron has stayed close to the Mediterranean for his wine list. It’s filled with well-priced selections from Spain and southern France in particular, such as an ‘08 Petit Rimauresq Côtes de Provence, or the ‘08 Veraton Campo de Borja Garnacha from Alto Moncayo.
8490 Melrose Pl., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2011.
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