It’s terrific fun to drink at doi moi. First, there are the sparkling wines, a range that includes everything from sparkling moschofilero to Jura crémant and a pink blend of St. Laurent and merlot from Heidi Schrock in Austria. All are particularly well suited to pairing with the Southeast Asian street food–inspired cuisine by chef Haidar Karoum (Estadio, Proof). But then there’s the rest of Max Kuller’s list—an acidlover’s dream. German riesling is just the beginning; there’s also Dirler-Cade Grand Cru Saering Muscat, Pichot Vouvray, Cantamessa Friesa and Ribera Sacra reds. For cocktails, head downstairs to 2 Birds 1 Stone, where Adam Bernbach handwrites and illustrates the drinks menu, a list of fanciful concoctions like Monster in the Parasol (berber-spiced grappa, honey, lemon and Gran Classico bitters) that are as dynamic in flavor as the food upstairs.
1800 14th St. NW, Washington D.C.
This story appears in the print issue of June 2014.
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