Twenty years on, Craig and Annie Stoll’s Delfina continues to serve soul-satisfying plates like grilled squid with a warm white bean salad and risotto with summer squash and squash blossoms, dishes that have come to define Cal-Ital cooking. Over the years, wine director Sally Kim has infused the list with more and more bottles from dynamic California producers, whether that’s Tessier Riesling from Arroyo Secco’s Zabala Vineyard or the Arnot-Roberts Touriga Nacional Rosé. But Italy remains the heart of the wine program, and this is still the place to drink an older Barolo with a great bowl of pasta.
3611 18th St., San Francisco, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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