Minutes south there’s Contra. The chef-owners—refugees from Copenhagen’s Noma—created a Scandi-inventive five-course menu set at $55. Sommelier du monde Linda Violago jetted over from her last post at Geranium in Denmark to spark their beverage program. Sixty or so selections are eccentric with nary a Bordeaux or Burgundy; rather, think 2005 Patrick Corbineau Touraine cabernet franc ($78) or 2007 Els Jelipins Font Rubí, a gritty, rosy, lively revelation from Spain.
138 Orchard St., New York, NY
This story appears in the print issue of April 2014.
Like what you read? Subscribe today.