Connie and Ted’s brings the New England seashore to West Hollywood in every way short of the sea air and the beach sand (and if it was in Santa Monica, and not on Santa Monica Boulevard, it’d have those too). Michael Cimarusti’s homage to his grandparents is anchored by a gleaming open kitchen framed by lobster tubs and mounds of oysters. It brings to mind seafood shacks from Ipswich to Hog Island. Cimarusti’s menu is like a wave of nostalgia for an East Coast summer, with chowdahs (3 kinds, available in flights), crab cakes and fried calamari. As for clams, you can have them with or without bellies. Laura Lindsay curates the cocktail list, and Hoang Nguyen’s all-domestic wine list is rife with high-acid whites, like the Broadside Wild Ferment Chardonnay and Forlorn Hope’s Amador verdelho, called “Que Saudade.”
8171 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hollywood, Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2013.
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