Church & State is situated in the loading bay of a former biscuit factory in downtown LA. The ceilings are high, the bricks are exposed, the crowd is noisy and the theme is very French bistro. Recently Walter Manzke, late of Bastide, took the helm as chef, where he crafts classic bistro fare-from moelle de boeuf to a rich bouillabaisse. Joshua Goldman’s brief, well-selected wine list is all French, with many natural and biodynamic selections, including l’Ecu’s nervy Expression de Gneiss Muscadet and the Chinon Garance from Nicolas Reau.
1850 Industrial St., Los Angeles, California
French
213-405-1434
Patrick J. Comiskey covers US wines for Wine & Spirits magazine, focusing on the Pacific Northwest, California’s Central Coast and New York’s Finger Lakes.
This story appears in the print issue of February 2009.
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