When Andy Myers built the wine list for China Chilcano, the latest from chef José Andres, he set out to match the restaurant’s spicy Peruvian-Chinese-Japanese cuisine as well as the playful feel of the room, with its brightly painted murals, sun-drenched walls and colorful accents. So, among the sakes and South American bottlings that nod to the food, and the Spanish wines that pay homage to Andrés’s heritage, Myers added in some of the Virginia wines he’s excited about, like Early Mountain’s petite manseng–muscat blend, and Barboursville’s chardonnay—wines he finds match well with dishes like the Aeropuerto, a riff on fried rice with egg noodles, sweet potato and vegetables, and the causagiris, the Peruvian answer to Japan’s nigiri, which swaps out rice for potatoes. However, when it comes to the lomo saltado, a boldly flavored strip steak with shishito pepper, tomato and soy sauce, you might want to stick to South America, with tannat from Uruguay or Peru. Come early for a drink: At the bar, Juan Coronado has gathered some 30 piscos, from single-varietal puros to housemade macerados infused with ingredients such as star anise and purple corn.
418 7th St. NW, Washington D.C.
Asian, Peruvian, Spanish
This story appears in the print issue of June 2015.
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