Chicago: Alpana - Wine & Spirits Magazine

Restaurant Review

Chicago: Alpana

by John Lenart • May 17, 2022

Alpana’s dining room (Photo by Anthony Tahlier Photography)

“In the past, I’ve always run into hurdles with the culinary direction of the restaurant,” says Alpana Singh, former host of the Emmy-award-winning PBS restaurant review program, Check Please!, and “retired” master sommelier turned restaurateur. To mitigate this creative struggle, Singh chose to install herself as culinary director for Alpana, her newest restaurant in Chicago’s historic Gold Coast, and forewent hiring a chef; this decision serves as only the foundation for the expression of self she gives to her latest venture. Singh describes the decidedly non-fussy menu as comforting, with approachable entrees like Faroe Island salmon topped with king oyster mushrooms, roasted chicken served with aji verde, and braised short ribs cooked with pinot noir au jus. While neither the descriptions of the dishes nor the plating are flashy, don’t be fooled; the food is delicious.

Alpana Singh (Photo by Anthony Tahlier Photography)

With her accreditations in the wine industry, it might not be a surprise that Singh expresses herself most fluently through her wine program. The list covers all the bases, but what’s most noticeable is its customer-friendly pricing. A 2011 Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon at just $210? Yes, please! When asked about her current star pairing, Singh noted the crispy polenta and mushrooms with a bottle of Domaine de l’Enclos Chablis from the 2018 vintage.

831 N State St, Chicago, IL 60610

New American

(312) 624-8055

alpanachicago.com

@alpanasrestaurant

John Lenart

John Lenart is a Chicago-based writer, host of the wine podcast and YouTube Channel "The Honest Pour" and an Emmy Award-winning producer/director. Lenart believes each wine is a snapshot of the time, place and people who make them. His stories capture the essence of what makes each wine special.

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TAGS Chicago New American Restaurant Restaurant Review

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