A sizeable offsite cellar (plus the buying power Chez Panisse has earned over its decades as California’s culinary ambassador) allows longtime wine director Jonathan Waters to stock up on truly interesting wines and serve them when he feels they’re ready, whether that’s a little known Bordeaux or a Raveneau Chablis from 2014. Chef Alice Waters’s relationship with the Golden State’s finest farmers and purveyors gives the kitchen a similar strategic advantage. This is the place to reconnect with food and drink that are honest and fundamental.
1517 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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