Comfort of a different sort is found at Chez Marvin, a small wine bar on Beverly. With its tiny proscenium of bare tables and long white-marble-topped bar, it’s the sort of place that Los Angeles has always been short on: comfortable, affordable and unpretentious. The food is spot on—French bistro classics with the occasional Italian inspiration, from loup de mer and cassoulet to porchetta and spaghetti Bolognese—but wine lovers, both civilians and the trade, flock here for Max Marder’s French-dominated list, disproportionately deep for such a small, casual place. Marder clearly has a penchant for verticals—you can go back a half-decade or more with Barthod and Raveneau, but also Puffeney (Arbois) and Montevertine (Tuscany) if you’re inclined.
8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of February 2015.
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