At Bronwyn in Somerville’s Union Square, chef-owners Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann are intent on raising the profile of Eastern Europe classics with elegant variations on the basics, and beverages to match. Polish kielbasa comes poached in cream with a side of farm greens; Germany’s fast-food currywurst goes upscale with grilled apples in place of the typical pile of fries. The schmaltz, made with chicken and pork fat and spiked with crisp cracklins, is addictive spread on crisp, thin-sliced rye bread; the knish gets a makeover with hazelnuts, shiitakes, riesling-braised leeks and Middlebury blue cheese. To wash it all down, they’ve gathered two pages worth of obscure beers as well as another two pages of wines from all over the former Austro-Hungarian empire and beyond. Kick off the evening with a sparkling grüner veltliner or a classic Sekt; move on to a bottle of Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe; with its vibrant acid and ripe fruit flavor, it handles the robust food on the menu well. On a cold night, a glass of Dingac Vinarija Plavac Mali will warm your blood with its deep, spicy flavor. Together with the food, Bronwyn brings enough warmth to melt away even the deepest winter chill.
225 Washington St., Somerville, Massachusetts
This story appears in the print issue of December 2013.
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