Seven years in, Bestia seems like it’s still running on a full head of steam. The room’s corrugated walls reverberate with an irrepressible energy. Ori Menashe’s peripatetic menu, described variously as “rustic Italian” and “a carnivore’s paradise,” is still as adventurous as ever, and Ryan Ibsen’s wine list remains lusty, esoteric and driven by high-acid whites, like juhfark from Fekete Bela in Hungary.
2121 E. 7th Pl., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of February 2015.
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