Start at the grand bar in the middle of the dining room, and get there before 6 p.m. “At $3 a glass, their happy-hour Sherry deal is difficult to fathom,” says wine writer Bryce Wiatrak. Then move to a table for olive oil–poached Gulf prawns, 5J Jamón Ibérico de Bellota and a wild mushroom-and-green-garlic paella, if you have a group. The list balances venerable Rioja producers like Muga and López de Heredia with newer projects like the 2016 Encinas Bierzo, a fragrant, electric mencía from a collaboration between Raúl Pérez and Antoine Graillot.
888 Brannan St., San Francisco, California
This story appears in the print issue of October 2019.
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