With its huge skylight and its necklace of ivy hanging from a ceiling planter, Bavel feels like an oasis. This second act for Bestia’s Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis leans into the duo’s heritage (Moroccan, Turkish, Israeli and Egyptian), taking local ingredients into a Middle Eastern realm of flatbreads and slow-cooked meats, like the herb-laden roast lamb-neck shawarma. To drink, start with a cocktail—perhaps the Nebuchadnezzar, an Old-Fashioned of sorts with lamb-fat-washed Bourbon, smoked ice and grapefruit juice; then delve into Ryan Ibsen’s wine list, which hugs the sunbaked parts of the Mediterranean, from Spain to Lebanon.
500 Mateo St., Los Angeles, California
This story appears in the print issue of April 2019.
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