Chef Josh Eden has brought his West Village classic to the Upper East Side. With small zinc tables and white brick walls, the space channels French bistro, but the wine list, written by Jon Dalin, goes farther afield, from surprisingly affordable to ambitious and expensive. Leave the Krug and DP for another time and ask the server to decant the Domaine Guion Bourgeuil or the Nittnaus Zweigelt (both $42). Then split the Manhattan salsify ragù, a vegan riff on Manhattan clam chowder with orange salsify, kale and hearts of palm in a light tomato sauce, cashew polenta on the side. It’s an entrée, but it makes for a delicious starter, especially if followed by the roast chicken. Eden cooks it sous vide, then pan roasts it to crisp the skin over the tender, juicy meat. Served over a bed of orange and purple whole carrots and braised hen of the woods mushrooms, the bird and the Bourgeuil are both welcome additions to the neighborhood.
791 Lexington Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd sts.), New York, NY
This story appears in the print issue of April 2015.
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