On a broad, lone block framed by the East River at the lower end and Brooklyn Bridge above, Atrium feels like an odd spot to find an incredible array of wines, most all under $100—choices like Tissot and Dirler-Cadé Crémants by the glass; Doyard and Moncuit Champagnes by the bottle; Botani dry moscatel; Kabaj Rebula; and Faury St-Joseph. The scene makes more sense when you realize that the warm space, with its wood tables and open kitchen, are the vision realized of three DB Bistro alums, one of them Alex LaPratt, the head bar man and the guy behind the wine list. The food lives up to his list: Things like a smoked potato bread, served warm with cold butter, are a little bit unexpected, and entirely delicious.
15 Main St., Dumbo, Brooklyn, New York
This story appears in the print issue of April 2014.
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