Step into this cozy corner spot in Vancouver’s fringe-industrial Railtown, and go ahead, ask for Luigi. If there is a Luigi to be found, he’ll be busy tucking into plates of family-style antipasti or toothsome house-made pasta while downing a tumbler of wine poured from tap or tossing back a spritz or three. Who will most likely greet you is Matthew Morgenstern, the fellow with the corkscrew and that wicked I’ve-got-some-thing-up-my-sleeve-for-you grin. His unaffected and honest demeanor mirrors the food and wine on offer. In addition to the tap selections, he rolls out a small whites-focused Italian list, everything available by the bottle, half-liter or glass. When a new bottle is opened, a bell rings and knowing eyes watch the old-school plastic letter board to see what’s new. The 2015 Offida Deja Passerina from Domodimonti with crispy warm cauliflower and olives? Si, grazie.
305 Alexander St., Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
This story appears in the print issue of February 2018.
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